Picture a Christmas card brought to life – snowcapped peaks, wooden chalets perched above the clouds like a hidden village in the sky – that’s Verbier. Now take away the snow and you’ve still got something magical. While it’s known for skiing, Verbier in summer is packed with adventures and perfect for families.
The flight from Dublin is under two hours – a big plus when you’re travelling with kids. From Geneva Airport, hop on a train to La Châble (with one easy change in Martigny). It takes around two hours, so pack the Uno cards. Sit on the right-hand side of the train for jaw-dropping views of Lake Geneva and rolling Swiss scenery as you leave the city behind.
La Châble feels like a secret doorway to the Alps – peaceful, picture-perfect and very easy to navigate. From there, the gondola takes you up to Verbier itself, which sits high on a sunny terrace, 1,500 metres above sea level. The views over the Grand Combin mountains are the kind that stop you mid-sentence.
How to get around?
When you stay just one night in Verbier, Val de Bagnes or La Tzoumaz, you will get a free VIP (Verbier Infinite Playground) Pass. It gives you loads of summer perks – like free lift access, half-price bike transport, discounted buses (and free shuttle buses from July to September) around the valley, 50% off activities and more. All you need to do is pay the tourist tax. The train from Geneva airport is approx. €46 each way but if you book it online in advance, you may get it cheaper. Depending on how long you are visiting Switzerland, you can buy a 4+ day ticket which is the best value for families.
Where to stay
If you’re into the outdoors, you can camp at Camping de Bonatchiesse, right in the heart of the valley. We stayed in a teepee there, but you can also pitch a tent or park your campervan along the river, or even book one of their wooden lodges. We spent the evening toasting marshmallows by the fire, swapping travel stories while the kids ran wild exploring. There’s a restaurant close to the camp site – Café de la Promenade – and I was surprised at how good the food was. The family-run camp site is now looked after by Thierry, who even does the impressive cooking. I’ll never forget falling asleep to the sound of nearby waterfalls, the lake and maybe the odd snore from fellow campers.
We were up early after a decent sleep, croissants for breakfast and we were off again by shuttle bus (right at the campsite) to hike up to Mauvoisin Dam with a mountain guide. You can do it alone but it’s more interesting when the history of the dam and the area is explained to you by an expert. The Mauvoisin Dam in Switzerland’s Valais was built from 1951 to 1957 for hydroelectric power and flood control. At 250m, it is among the world’s tallest. The lake stores glacier water, supplying energy and protecting the valley. In the 1980s, the dam was raised to increase capacity. Today, it also draws visitors with its alpine scenery and I can see why. The breathtaking waterfalls, the aquamarine water and the sheer height of the dam is mind-blowing. The hike up is steep in parts and also uphill through the mountains and be mindful of cyclists as it is a busy thoroughfare. There is an authentic restaurant on the ascent called ‘Restaurant de Mauvoisin’ which has gorgeous views and fantastic food. Bring plenty of layers as you can be hot from walking up the hills and cooler in parts in the shade.
After lunch some of the group were taking part in the via ferrata, I wasn’t sure what this was but it is most definitely for the adventurous souls. A via ferrata is a mountain route with fixed cables, ladders and rungs. You clip in for safety, making it a mix of hiking and climbing and a lot of adrenaline, this is all done with and explained thoroughly by an expert guide.
One of my favourite parts of the day was checking into Hôtel de Verbier. First, we had to drive down into the valley before winding our way back up to Verbier. The drive was full of twisty roads, climbing higher and higher and the views just kept getting better. Reaching the top felt so worth it – the fresh mountain air and vibrant energy of Verbier are such a refreshing change from city life.
The hotel sits right in the heart of the village, so you can walk anywhere and it’s only a short stroll to the main cable car. From the outside, it’s traditional alpine wood and inside, it’s just as beautiful – renovated in 2020 with an alpine-chic style, sustainable touches and cosy shearling covered furnishings. The walls are decorated with charming original artefacts like old skis, a cowbell and historic photos of the hotel, giving it a warm, traditional feel despite its modern upgrades. The rooms have a loft-like charm with wooden beams, and some have balconies overlooking the lively village centre – a perfect spot for people-watching or mountain-gazing with an Aperol Spritz in hand. With its spa, gym and excellent restaurant, it’s the perfect blend of alpine-chic comfort, style and in a prime yet secluded location. It really is everything you imagine Switzerland to be.
Activities in Summer
Verbier is a winter hotspot for skiing and snowboarding, but summer is just as packed with activities for all ages. Kids can test their balance at the Treetop Park or zipline across Europe’s highest zipline from Mont Fort at 3,300 m, hitting speeds up to 130 km/h. There are mountain bike trails, Trotti bike runs (my favourite), hiking and running routes, pools, an alpine-style cinema and a marquee full of kids’ activities like mini golf, rock climbing and laser games. You’ll also find two golf courses, plus free taster golf sessions on Friday mornings.
Dining in Verbier
You’re definitely spoiled for choice when it comes to food here. Even at the campsite, we enjoyed a great dinner with plenty of variety and in Verbier, you’ll find all the usual dining options plus traditional favourites like raclette – a delicious Swiss dish of melted cheese served with potatoes and/or pickles. You can even buy cheese from vending machines! Just watch the portion sizes – they’re big enough to share. Some restaurants we dined at included Pizzeria Bordalino, La Dahu, Restaurant de Mauvoisin, Le Caveau (I believe it is the best for raclette) the campsite restaurant is called Café de la Promenade and the hotel breakfast buffet was superb also.
From June to September, the area is buzzing with festivals, from cheese-making and raclette celebrations to music, cinema and family events. You can even adopt a traditional Swiss Hérens cow – known for their fiery personalities and head-to-head battles to decide who’s boss.
The only fashion accessory you need in Switzerland is a good camera as you will be constantly mesmerised by the beauty of the landscape. From the train journey along lake Geneva, gondolas and cable cars from La Chable to Verbier and up to the highest peak – Mont Fort – this stunning landscape will stay in your memory for a long time.
Travel Facts
Camping at de Bonatchiesse prices from Adult (14 years +) €41 per night (0-2 years): Free, Child (2-14 years): €23 per night – includes breakfast and mattresses on the floor, sleeping bags and pillows. For more info – https://en.bonatchiesse.ch/
4* Hotel de Verbier costs €300 per night in a double room and €530 in a family room, sleeping up to five on a room only basis. For more info: www.hoteldeverbier.com (Summer rates, Winter rates are more)
For all train travel, tickets start at €46 one-way, booked on www.travelswitzerland.com
Direct return flights with Aer Lingus from Dublin to Geneva cost from €189 pp
Published in the Irish Daily Mail on 7/2/2026